ABOUT
Tableau Vivant – “living picture” describes artist’s models carefully posed and theatrically lit. Throughout the duration of the display the people shown do not speak or move
Inspired by Victorian fashion, an extraordinary period in fashion that developed throughout the reign of Queen Victoria who ruled the British Empire between 1837–1901.
The fashions of this era combine contrasting aspects. While women were almost immobilized by lavishly layered& richly decorated dresses, men’s fashion refined the lines of exemplary tailoring. Men appear stiff and formal while ladies clothes were rich and playful. Men wore elegant, tight fitting frock coats, tailored waist coats, shirts with high upstanding collars & cravats. The look was completed by a top hat and facial hair.
Women’s skirts kept expanding until they reached maximum width, supported by crinolines. Corsets stressed woman’s sexuality exaggerating hips and bust in contrast with a tiny waist. Small waists were desired and the ladies took corsetry to extremes attempting to create waist as small as 16 inches. Shawls were complimenting all gowns where shoulders were exposed to avoid scandal. Clothing covered the entire body and the smallest glimpse of an unexposed ankle would result in scandal. Activities such as swimming were forbidden as this was considered as “bad etiquette” . Riding a bicycle also required a special outfit to ensure no body parts were exposed. However these outfits were now sold at department stores as the invention of the sewing machine simplified dress making.
The Victorians were truly fascinating people. They were obsessed by death and attending funerals became a routine. Life was short due to unsanitary environments, tainted water and contagious diseases. Serious professional mourning was n a social necessity with strict rituals. Industries were invented to cater for mourning clothes, stationary, food and funeral accessories. In the event of a person passing clocks were stopped, curtains were drawn and mirrors covered so spirits would not get trapped in the reflection of the glass. Women were expected to mourn for years & wear only black. After funerals “tear bottles” could be purchased to store tears. Post mortem photographs of the deceased came into fashion put together as photo albums. Spiritualism and hypnotism were practiced as a desire to get in touch with the other world.
Homes were dark and gloomy cluttered with furniture and knick knacks. Most Victorians collected curiosities which they displayed in their homes. These could be anything from sea shells, clock automata, antique weapons, stuffed animals or other oddities.
Pornography was wildly popular and gentlemen enjoyed hard core erotic novels and pictures. Prostitution flourished and the elite class indulged in all kinds of adulterous liaisons with all sexes.
Hysteria was a diagnosis for all women. To cure it, pelvis massage (masturbation) was advised with the doctor pedaling an electronic machine until the patient reached orgasm. For all other diseases hydrotherapy was prescribed while the body had to be immersed in either hot or cold water.
Women were seen as dainty & delicate and were not allowed to express emotions. As a reaction to nearly everything they would collapse or faint (swoon). The ultimate beauty product was arsenic soap to make the skin look better.
Overall this magnificent era influenced many changes in lifestyle, fashion, visual art, literature and general development. Important artists emerged in this period such as Oscar Wilde, Charles Dickens, William Thackeray, James Tissot, Albert Moore, John William Waterhouse and many more. Various inventions such as telephone, radio, camera, toilet, vacuum cleaner and sewing machine were introduced.
The completion of these looks took approximately 3 months to produce.
For the dress 20 meters of satin, 50 meters of chiffon and 350 meters of ribbon was used as well as various lace and other materials. The corset is decorated with 200 pieces of pearls, black lace and further decorative ribbon. For the jacket, pants, waistcoat, cravat and shirt about 8 meters of fabric was used.
Photo: Marvin Grech
Make up: Damian Galea
Model: Marina Morais
Dubai, November 2014

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